A confession…

Posted by ViaVia Jogja Travel

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A confession…

From our 2nd Newsletter 2008

A sequel of Cities Without Maps – Kali Code Mapping Project 2008

My involvement with Cities Without Maps began with a little bit of luck and serendipity. I first met Zanny and Keg in ViaVia when I was working as a freelance guide. They wanted to book a Code Walk tour for the next day and with enthusiasm I said, “I will be your guide!” I never realized that my answer would lead to becoming involved in a film and book project.

They were fascinated with Kali Code on their first encounter. I invited them to my grandmother’s house in Ratmakan and they met my nieces and family. We walked along the narrow alleyways of Kali Code which were full of laughter of children bathing in a public well, the fluttering of colorful flying kites and pigeon wings as men raced them in the skies, the noisy chattering of women, while a nice breeze of dusk brought alive the unique aroma of urban life in Kali Code.

And so the story goes…

They invited me to dive into this project and how could I say no? They asked me to help them as a facilitator – interpreter and translator also – to go between the lines with the communities in Kali Code and link it with them. I worked also with Pitra Ayu from IVAA and Pak Bunder, the native in Kali Code who owns a prawn cracker home industry, and Pak Antok a.k.a Pak Pethel from Anak Wayang Indonesia.

The workshop with the children

This project took one month to go deeper in Kali Code with six days of filming and a one day drawing workshop with children. I was glad it was me who shot them with Zanny’s camera – when I interviewed the woman who burned the dog poo, the ghost busters, and the children! Of course they also put me in their film – as a star! It’s a bit weird and funny when you watch yourself in the screening while you are explaining about your sexual activities with your boyfriend! 🙂 But I do enjoy watching myself!

The screening was held on Sunday night, 27 July 208 in Ratmakan. It was a success despite of the appearance of ghosts at our party. The place we used is a vacant lot which is a base camp of the Code ghosts, says the local ghost buster. Besides, it is near to the Ghost Palace which is located at the south bridge. When we did the screening, unexpectedly the film was stuck in the middle.

Zanny and Keg made animation drawings for all the ghosts, such as the serpent with the king’s head, the Chinese women ghost, dismembered hand, tuyul (a child-shaped ghost in a form of little baldy naked child with its upside downed-lips and is asked to steal money from people), ghosts music and singing, and genderuwo (a fire-hairy huge man-shaped ghosts live in the trees or pillars; some of them are evils).

I think that the ghosts also came to see their film! 🙂

Warung Sinema
Balloons for the

Actually, I was interested in being involved as I have special family relationship with Kali Code and I have chosen to live here with my boyfriend, Greg. Kali Code has many stories to be discovered, retold, and analyzed in an ongoing process of dialogue with the community who live here. It is a unique urban community which has endured many historical burdens and scars and which persists in the face of inexorable forces of globalization and post-modernism.

Finally, there’s much more I would like to say, but maybe I will just conclude by saying through this art project (of video and publication), we can create another “story book” about life in Kali Code.

By Vanie (our freelance guide in ViaVia 2005 – 2008)

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